thelovingspoonful.net

Lucques
8474 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90069
(313) 655-6277
lucques.com

Ordered:
See photos and descriptions in review

Review:
Nestled next to Ago on the busy corner of Melrose and North La Cienega, Lucques occupies a small, stucco building adorned with dark, leafy vines. Parking in this area – especially on weekend nights – is nearly impossible. Circle around the neighborhood once or twice if you’d like. Be prepared, however, with a bit of cash for the valet.

Once you get inside, the space is glowing with the light of countless votives and an impressive wood-burning fireplace. If it wasn’t always so crowded, this place would be très romantique. The crowd is really moneyed and uptight, lots of older folks and cosmetic enhancements gone wrong.

The last time we were here, the crowd was particularly obnoxious. A guy in a velvet blazer yelled “FINALLY! IT’S ABOUT TIME!” as the hostess lead us to our seats, leaving a spot on the waiting area couch open for him. I looked at him, and he laughed, “JUST PLAYIN’! YOU HAVE A GREAT MEAL NOW! Bye.” I didn’t say anything, but the hostess and a couple waiters apologized for his behavior.

As pretty and rustic as the inside of the place is… it can be rather tight, especially on boisterous night. If possible, ask to sit out on the heated patio. It is usually worth the wait.

Patio 1:

The outdoor patio at Lucques is enclosed. It still has the same romantic glow as the inside, but there is a lot more elbow room and the acoustics are much better. Even on a busy night, there is more order and calm in the outdoor patio, which does not have to deal with a crowded bar and limited space like in the main dining room. Plus, you can still see the lovely indoor area, which – trust me – is a lot better from the outside looking in.

Patio 2:

Lovely, isn’t it? And here’s another…

Tablescape:

Ambiance aside, Lucques also serves up a variety of cocktails, which are always undergoing changes according what flavors happen to be in season.

Orange Basil Martini & Chardonnay:

The chardonnay was quite crisp and full of fruit. My orange basil martini smelled divine, and really packed an alcoholic punch!

House Bread & Olives:

Crusty, thick-cut bread. Salty, bitter olives. The simplest foods are always the best.

Salad (Figs, Kumquats, Parmesan, Pomegranate, Walnuts):

I really enjoyed my salad. I wanted fresh figs, but – hey – it wasn’t September. The balmy kumquat skins really lifted up the shaved parmesan and chopped walnuts.

Home-made Sausage, Pork Liver Crostini, Braised Cabbage, Grapes:

Drool. This was so tasty – and definitely an ample portion for something that was on the “starters” menu! It was absolutely delectable. The sausage, pork liver, braised cabbage, grapes… so French, so balanced. I loved how there was nothing done to fuss up the grapes. No sautée was needed. A fresh, sweet crunch was the perfect combination to liven up such a hearty dish.

Grilled Sea Bass:

Profuse apologies, but for the life of me, I can’t seem to find my notes. I remember that this dish was a large cut of grilled sea bass with lots of fresh green vegetables and herbs (cabbage, flat leaf parsley, frisee, chard, and maybe some escarole). A fairly delicate, mild dish that was gentle on the tummy (especially after such a robust starter!).

Hazelnuts, Hamhock, Grilled Lamb, Mashed Potatoes:

Now, I know what you’re thinking. This dish looks like an ugly mess, doesn’t it? Funny thing is – at the time – I honestly didn’t notice. Glancing back at the photo raises my brow; The kitchen staff definitely could have done something to make this dish look more appetizing!:)

I had actually ordered pork tenderloin with sweet potatoes, but they mixed up the order. I wasn’t feeling fussy, and didn’t want to wait for another dish to be made, so lamb it was! I was relatively pleased with the dish, though slightly disappointed because I really was looking forward to the pork tenderloin. But the lamb was good, and at least the food wasn’t wasted.

Would I order it myself? No. It was kinda all over the place. Plus, I like my lamb deep marinated and charred. Lamb is so rich that it needs to be paired with very lively ingredients, not ham and hazelnuts.

Anyway, for dessert I ordered the chocolate torte. It was recommended to me by the waiter.

Chocolate Torte, Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Chestnut Cream, Pecan Brittle:

Pretty tasty. Even though the pastry chef at Lucques also provides desserts for AOC, I can tell she saves her A game for her home restaurant.

Rating:
7 out of 10 spoonfuls

Value:
$$$